Thank You John Long

Sometimes you need something to kick start you a little, to put things into motion that you really didn't realize were stopped in the first place.  I'm still at a loss for what it is that keeps the gears turning or why they stop.  In fact I don't even really understand what it means for me to be personally fluid vs static just yet.  At this point I'm only feeling those moments where I recognize change and the flashes of brilliance that demarcate one to the other.  Fuck man I'm at loss of which is better to be honest.  Sometimes it really feels good for the gears to stop for a minute, a while, hell indefinitely.  It feels comfortable and relaxing, I like that.  But then there's that moment that you had no idea was even necessary that wakes you up and gets the machine moving again, and that's an indescribable feeling.  These wake-up moments get me excited if only for the fact that they inherently catch me by surprise and breath a new life into my being that I always need.  I will always need.

As I paddled out solo to playa Camaronal this evening to perfect shit conditions of head-high waves (still plenty of power) and mixed swell with surface wind chop I wasn't expecting anything but some good practice in shitty surfing conditions.  It caught me off-guard when the first wave was surprisingly good, then the second better.  Each wave had a distinctly different feel to it, it was mixed to shit after all, and the waves should have been terrible, they were unpredictable to say the least.  As I dialed in a unreasonably big takeoff area I started ending up in the exact spot to score wave after wave.  Then the 6th or 7th wave was a ripping head high left that seemed to go on forever, after that a right that was overhead and barreling(kinda).  This was a fucking dream, I'm by myself and quite unexpectedly my favorite beach has started producing wave after wave of dynamite.  At that point, and right on cue, a thick cloud bank moved overhead at a decent height so as to slowly let the setting sun sneak under it for the last 25 minutes or so of daylight.  I'm telling you I haven't experienced a glow like that from a sunset in my 37 years.  The sky, the ocean, the energy, my shitty perfect waves all a bright gold for what felt like an eternity.  Absolutely stunning and to top it off I didn't take my eye off the waves rolling in.  I scored a perfect, I mean perfect big left drop with a smooth arcing cutback turn to close-out.  Just incredible my man.  All gold all the time.  All  laughs. All shouts.  All connections.  All right man, all right.  All love John Long, you're a great friend and I'm glad I get to spend time with you. 

See you tomorrow morning in the water.

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